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Detroit Axle

Detroit Axle - Front 4pc Control Arms for 2000 2001 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 3500, 4 Lower & Upper Control Arms Suspension Kit Replacement

  • Based on 31 reviews
Condition: New
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Availability: In Stock.
Fulfilled by Detroit Axle
Arrives Jun 24 – Jun 25
Order within 4 hours and 56 minutes
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Size: K620248 x2_K620247 x2/4PC


Features

  • Control Arms Replacement for 2000 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 (4WD) - [2000 2001 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 (4WD; with Solid Front Axle)] - 2000 2001 2002 Dodge Ram 3500 (4WD) - [2000 2001 2002 Dodge Ram 3500 (RWD; with Solid Front Axle)]
  • Kit Includes: 2x Front Upper Control Arms + 2x Front Lower Control Arms
  • Detroit Axle Suspension Control Arms are ready to meet the rigorous demands of todays foreign and domestic passenger cars, trucks and SUVs
  • Detroit Axle is a leading supplier of ride control products to OE vehicle manufacturers Nationwide, that expertise translates to Detroit Axle's OE-quality
  • 10-Year Warranty

Brand: Detroit Axle


Fit Type: Vehicle Specific Fit


Auto Part Position: Front


Color: Silver


Orientation: Front


Brand Name: Detroit Axle


Manufacturer Part Number: K620248 x2_K620247 x2


Manufacturer: Detroit Axle


Fit Type: Vehicle Specific Fit


Auto Part Position: Front


Auto Part Orientation: Front


Automotive Fit Type: Vehicle Specific Fit


Part Interchange Info: K620248 K620247


Color: Silver


Unit Count: 4.0 Count


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: Jun 24 – Jun 25

Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.

To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.

View our full returns policy here.

  • Klarna Financing
  • Affirm Pay in 4
  • Affirm Financing
  • Afterpay Financing
  • PayTomorrow Financing
  • Financing through Apple Pay
Leasing options through Acima may also be available during checkout.

Learn more about financing & leasing here.

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Top Amazon Reviews

    • Great product for a great price!!
Size: 4CS50049/4PC
Fits perfect. Great quality!
Reviewed in the United States on December 9, 2025 by Fits and works
    • Great purchase for 2012 Optima
Size: 4CS50114/4PC
Great quality product. Assembly was easy and fit like expected.
Reviewed in the United States on June 28, 2025 by Dave
    • Great Ebayer! + Great Deal!!
Size: 4CS1300442/4PC
Great Ebayer! + Great Deal!!
Reviewed in the United States on April 22, 2026 by Rick L Duis
    • Perfect fit but with accessory issues
My control arm kits came with the ball joints pre-installed. The construct and assembly of the parts was proper and showed no defects. However, it didn't have the ball joint retaining bolts as seen in the website, so I reused the old ones. The swaybar links were too big and couldn't fit my car so I reinstalled the old ones. Besides, newer types are sealed and dont have grease fittings but these do so they're larger (the body) and don't fit my car specifically. The ball joints fit perfectly. Note that to fit the joint into the spindle disconnected the tie rod first, and the brake assembly too. This allowed me room to twist and tilt/angle the ball to get it inserted fully. I used a pair of adjustable pliers to grip the ball lightly to prevent surface damage and turn it to the right angle. I tapped on the bottom of the ball gently and it seated fully. I kept the control arm retaining bolts loose to make the fitment process easier then tightened them to torque specifications. After the installation I realigned the wheels generally straight and went straight away to my service center/alignment shop. Now the front end is firm on bumps and turns. I recommend the parts that I bought. I'm planning to buy some of rear-end suspension to complete the setup. I'll have to do the alignment again but note that if you're doing the front then consider doing the rear components as well and save money on alignments. A few years ago I paid a little extra for lifetime alignments, so it's not an issue for me. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on November 12, 2024 by Lascelle
    • Good price for the quality!
Size: 4CS501098/4PC
Good quality....perfect fit!
Reviewed in the United States on October 24, 2025 by Vulcan Cristian
    • Control arms
Size: 4CS48398/4PC
ITEM AS PROMISED WORKS GREAT
Reviewed in the United States on December 17, 2025 by JT
    • Exactly what we were looking for.
Size: 4CS50879/4PC
This product met our expectations precisely. The correct information was displayed, and it was a perfect fit for the vehicle we were servicing
Reviewed in the United States on January 3, 2026 by Andrea
    • Ranger 2WD COIL SUSPENSION!!!
Size: 80466-4A/4PC
10/21/24 UPDATE: After less than 5,000 miles this replacement is broken. 2000 Ford Ranger that drives 9 miles to work at 40mph on surface street. Unbelievable! 4/10/2023 UPDATE: After almost 20,000 miles exactly, the upper control arms are clacking again. I can bounce the front bumper and hear a snap/crack sound. It's the upper control arm on the driver side. Passenger side does it occasionally while driving. TIME TO REPLACE AGAIN!!!!! Make sure to leave upper arm bushing bolts loose--and tighten once the truck is on the ground. This loads/pre-loads it nicely and prevents premature failure. These are super cheap and WILL work, but they're cheap. There is some issue (from a wide variety of manufacturers) getting upper control arms to fit the old Rangers--these seem to fit. Just ordered another set (of the upper arms only, not this whole kit). These work on Ford Rangers with COIL Suspensions in the front. That means when you take off your front tires you see HUGE springs wrapped around you shock struts (and you'll also have a sway bar--which is NOT the same as a torsion bar). Many Detroit Axle products are for aftermarket front ends apparently, these work on stock 2WD Rangers. Mine is a: 2000 Ranger XLT 2WD 2-Door SuperCab 3.0L Flex Fuel with the COIL (spring) suspension in front (not the torsion bar). Take wheels off. Disconnect tie rod end from wheel spindle. BUY A SET OF 2 TIE ROD POLYESTER (RED) GREASE BOOT THINGS. Take off brake calipers (two bolts each on those are only 24 ft/lbs--my Haynes manual lied and said a crazy number double that, so I broke one bolt putting it back on)! Take bolt off upper a-arm ball joint and stick a big fork tool in there and pound off the upper ball joint. Disconnect two upper a-arm hinge bolts. Remove upper a-arm. This lets the wheel spindle/brake disc hang loose. Pound out lower ball joint (wheel spindle/brake disc will fly out--catch it!) Put in upper a-arm with hinge bolts. Put in lower ball joint: I found a 6" piece of pipe the same size: put the ball joint on top and used a 2nd jack to lift it up into place...hammer the lower spindle as the jack pushes up (a second piece of pipe helped so I wasn't bashing directly onto the ball joint). Put in grease fitting and fill with grease (you'll need grease and grease gun for the included fitting). Tighten all that junk back up....EXCEPT THE UPPER CONTROL ARM SWIVEL BUSHING BOLTS---WAIT UNTIL THE TRUCK IS BACK ON THE GROUND TO "LOAD" THE BUSHINGS BEFORE TIGHTENING. Emory/black sandpaper to clean the holes in the reused parts. Wire brush. Tons of Liquid Wrench. Various large wrenches and DEEP sockets. Torque wrench Extra cotter pins pliers TWO GREASE BOOT tie rod end thingies ($7 at Autozone). Big hammer / a 2nd, heavy lead hammer came in handy. A couple pieces of the "correct size pipe" or a ball joint press c-clamp kit thingy (rentable at auto parts stores). A jack (or two). Piece of wood to brace while pounding in/out lower ball joints. Grease and gun for it for the "Zerk" fittings on the lower ball joints (upper ones are sealed). Small pliers for cotter pins. Wheel removal stuff (the usual). Wire brush for cleaning threads. Big "fork" thingies my father had to aid in pounding between the joints to force the old ones off! This took FOREVER to do!!!!!! Literally 6.5 hours. About 1/2 hour finding replacement brake caliper bolt. About another hour gathering and putting away tools. Liquid Wrench everything while you gather other tools so it soaks in. These things are greased, but add more...and add more to your tie-rod ends too while you're at it! This was the first time ever on my (original owner) 2000 Ranger for these parts. All the rubber was old and ruined and all the metal was rusted, so removal was slow going. This is NOT an exhaustive list...just what I remember. My truck doesn't clunk randomly anymore! Mike from Detroit ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on October 13, 2018 by M1K3 FR0M D3TR01T

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