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Denso

Denso 471-0316 New Compressor with Clutch

    • Based on 120 reviews
Condition: New
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Availability: Only 6 left in stock, order soon!
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Arrives Wednesday, May 22
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Features

  • New Compressor w/Clutch
  • Pulley Belt Type: Serpentine
  • Mounting Type: Bolt Tangent
  • Compressor Mount Hole Quantity: 4
  • Fit type: Vehicle Specific

Description

Superior Air Conditioning Components: DENSO is the world's largest supplier of A/C compressors, clutches and components. Denso's units are specified by most major vehicle manufacturers. DENSO A/C components are built to meet the stringent requirements of carmakers throughout the world for high output, extended reliability and reduced noise, vibration and harshness. The DENSO First Time Fit aftermarket line of compressors, clutches, receiver/driers and expansion valves is the result of over 30 years of engineering know-how. These products bring together everything DENSO knows as an air conditioning systems manufacturer to bring you the highest quality line of remanufactured and factory new A/C compressors available.New or Remanufactured, The Same High Standard When it comes to remanufactured product, you can't do better than going with a unit remanufactured by the OE supplier. DENSO knows these units better than anyone - because they originally built them. Each unit goes through a rigorous remanufacturing process to meet DENSO's strict standards for quality. If the part does not meet their stringent specifications, it is replaced with factory-new components or the part is scrapped out.In addition to their quality remanufactured units, some applications are covered by new DENSO compressors. As always, these units are built right the first time, so they last longer and perform better.


Manufacturer: ‎Denso


Brand: ‎Denso


Model: ‎A/C COMPRESSOR


Item Weight: ‎12 pounds


Country of Origin: ‎China


Item model number: ‎4710316


Is Discontinued By Manufacturer: ‎No


Manufacturer Part Number: ‎4710316


Date First Available: January 2, 2007


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: Wednesday, May 22

Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.

To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.

View our full returns policy here.

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Top Amazon Reviews

    • Compressor change on Chevy Tahoe , tips and how to remove / install.
Compressor change out on a Chevy Tahoe 2002, 4x4 If you can remove a starter engine, then yes you can change the compressor yourself. I changed the compressor because the clutch coil got grounded, I know that the most logical option was to pull out the compressor, remove the clutch plate, and replace the coil clutch. But the compressor was an aftermarket, not well know brand, made in china. Definitely I didn’t want to get involved with a compressor that had already 40,000 miles, with a failed coil clutch. The logical choice for me was a more expensive, made in USA compressor, with a well know brand such as Denso. To remove and install the compressor (I have the shop manuals for this truck), you have to lift the car, remove the front passenger wheel, remove the plastic inner fender (inner plastic fender is held in place with push type plastic clips, if you remove them with care, you will be able to re-use them), you will have the 2 top bolts of the compressor right in front of you, and easily accessible. Remove the refrigerant, remove the discharge and suction lines of the compressor, tape both ends with painters blue masking tape (blue masking tape will not leave glue goo residue) Crawl under the car, remove the plastic shield (if equipped) that is located under the radiator, this will give you access to the tensioner pulley, with a 3/8 extension and ratchet, introduce the end of the extension on the square hole of the tensioner pulley so you may release the pressure and remove the compressor belt. Unscrew the 2 lower bolts of the compressor, have patience is a slow process of 1/4 of a turn with an open wrench there is no space for a ratchet and socket. The front lower bolt of the compressor will not come out (there is no space for it); it can only be removed once the compressor is totally out. Remember this because you have to put the new compressor back in place with this bolt already in the hole. Remove the compressor clutch electrical plug, and the high pressure electrical plug located in the back of the compressor. Move aside the suction and discharge pipes; unscrew the 2 top bolts of the compressor. Remove the compressor, through the fender well between the chassis and the engine (It looks tight but there is space, you do not need to remove any other parts such as radiator hoses) Reverse procedure for the installation. NOTES: 1) There is a video in you tube were the technician removes the compressor, from the top up. You will have to lose the fan blades and the fan shroud to do the job. It is not worth it, you will suffer unnecessarily. 2) If you compressor had an internal failure, and you suspect pieces of metal are inside the line, you will have to blow out the lines, change the suction accumulator which has silica drier compound and filter inside, and you have to remove the orifice /expansion device, which also has a filter. The right way to blow the lines is with nitrogen, if you use compressed air, humidity will get inside the pipes, and do not expect the new compressor too last for too long. You may blow the lines with refrigerant gas, but it is not the environmental responsible way of doing it. The longer the pipes are open to the air, the more chances humidity will get onto the system, and you will need a vacuum pump to remove the humidity. The subject of humidity is more complicated than what I am describing, Google it! Avoid doing this job during cold and rainy days. 3) The new compressor does not come with the new o-rings, I highly suggest that you change them also, the o-rings are molded into a metal washer, let’s call it a “washoring”. Link for the o-ring kit: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C2QM1M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00 ASIN B000C2QM1M 4) Additional Notes The new Compressor comes with enough oil for a dry system, with that I mean that it takes in consideration that the suction accumulator will be replaced with a new one, if you install the new compressor with the older suction accumulator, you will have excess oil in the system. Excess oil will reduce cooling performance, and it may flood the new compressor with oil, which may also break its parts (the compressor cannot compress oil). Read the instructions that came with the compressor with regards to the oil amount in it.,and how to adjust it. Your best bet is to install a new suction accumulator, and you can avoid adjusting the oil charge. If you place the refrigerant can upside down, you will be introducing pure liquid refrigerant in the system. Not recommended if you are not certain about what you are doing, liquid refrigerant may get into the compressor After you install the compressor, if the compressor tends to get stuck and the belt slip, and weird noises come out of the new compressor you did it wrong, it will break. If you like my review give me a thumbs up in Amazon, if you have any questions I will do my best to help you with it ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on September 3, 2015 by Alex CK
    • Compressor for 2003 suburban LS 5.3L flex with rear ac
I bought this truck knowing the AC does not work. I found out a huge leak on front AC evaporator. Replaced it and charged it only to find out rear AC is also not working. Got it discharged at a shop and replaced the clogged rear expansion valve. Recharged it again, a week later I heard a rattling noise from engine compartment between 2000-2500 RPM. Googled it and found it is the AC compressor. I decided to replace it. While replacing the rear expansion valve I noticed some sort of sticky dirt kind of stuff inside the ac system (no metal pieces though) I haven't seen that inside any AC system before. I'm not sure what was it and how that got inside. One mechanic told me probably the AC wasn't working for years. Still that does not explain how sticky dirt got inside. I should have flushed the entire system at that time itself. I tried to save some bucks by cutting corners but eventually had to do that. So I decided to replace the entire AC system. AC compressor(Denso 471-0316), Accumulator drier (ACDelco 15-10421), AC condenser (ACDelco 15-63667), orifice tube (ACDelco 15-5378), all the gaskets, (front evaporator core (ACDelco 15-62961) and rear expansion valve (ACDelco 15-50106) were replaced 2 weeks prior to this). I completely flushed the system using FJC 2128 A/C Flush Solvent(1 gallon) and Mastercool 91046-A Air conditioner System Flush Kit (I wouldn't recommend buying this. Please read review by Mike "mike463" on this here in Amazon. There are other people had the same complaint but Mike had a solution). While flushing I did find metal pieces from the compressor trapped near the orifice tube and expansion valve filters About this compressor this is an exact fit for my truck. Good part, It is made in the USA. Mine came filled with 2 fl oz of PAG oil. The only difference between my original Delphi and this Denso compressor is a overheat cut-off circuit (connector) at the rear side of the compressor. The instructions came with the compressor stated if your vehicle originally had the wiring for high temperature cut-off please connect it if not just leave it alone. Mine did not had this connection so I just let it alone. I had to replace the Drive Belt Tensioner Assembly (ACDelco 38159) also. There are 2 small pieces of metal on either side of the pulley's arm holding it from moving too far mostly you will see at least one of them broken, but check yours before ordering a new one. Per an article I found online the entire AC system with rear ac requires 11 fl oz (330ml) of PAG 150 oil. If you are just replacing the compressor alone drain the oil from the failed compressor in to a measuring jar. If the oil is less than 1 fl oz (30 ml) add 2 fl oz (60 ml) to the new compressor. If the oil is more than 1 fl oz add the same amount that was drained from the old compressor. Make sure you buy new oil and please do not keep this oil open for long PAG oil absorbs lot of moisture and get contaminated. Here is the break up of oil required for entire AC system with rear AC (This is only applicable if you are replacing all components or flushing the entire system) Accumulator 3.5 oz, Eavaporator 3 oz, Condensor 1 oz, compressor 3.5 oz. To get the warranty on this compressor you have to replace the orifice tube and accumulator/drier and there should be a work order saying the entire system was flushed. If you do not have the rear AC you need 8 oz (240ml) of PAG 150 oil. I'm not sure about the break up though. The AC system with rear AC takes 3 lbs of R134a. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on July 16, 2013 by JK

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