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ANYCUBIC

ANYCUBIC Photon M3 Resin 3D Printer, 7.6'' LCD SLA UV 3D Resin Printer with 4K+ Monochrome Screen, Protective Film, Fast Printing, Max Printing Size 7.08'' x 6.45'' x 4.03''

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Size: Photon M3


Features

  • [7.6" Screen & Large Print Volume] The ANYCUBIC Photon M3 resin printer features 7.6" screen and can print up to max volume of 7.08" x 6.45" x 4.03", giving you more possibilities for your creations. Adds a replaceable anti-scratch film (an extra protective film is included for replacement) to effectively prevent liquids from leaking to the LCD screen.
  • [4K+ High Resolution & High Precision] Photon M3 4K+ monochrome resin printer help print clearer, finer surface textures. With a 400:1 screen contrast ratio, the fast printer perfectly prints models with sharp corners and delicate edges, and also greatly reduces residue in the resin tank.
  • [Ultra-fast Printing] Photon M3 resin printer fastest printing speed can reach 50mm/h, and the single-layer exposure curing time is as low as 1.5s. It only takes 2.5 hours to print a 12cm model, which is 2.5 times faster than other 2k resin printers, help get models faster.
  • [Power UV Light] Using the latest ANYCUBIBC Light Turbo light source system, the LED lamp beads arranged in a matrix provide a powerful ultraviolet light source. The new build plate has a texturized checkerboard pattern that dramatically improves adhesion and print success rate.
  • [Adjustable UV Power] Compared with other LCD 3D printers, the ANYCUBIC Photon M3 printer can achieve 30%-100% power adjustment, not only supports ordinary 405nm UV resin, but also supports special resin, compatible with more materials, UV power can be adjust according to resin needs.

Brand: ANYCUBIC


Material: Resin


Color: Yellow, Black


Product Dimensions: 10.6"D x 10.1"W x 16.7"H


Item Weight: 7 Kilograms


Product Dimensions: 7.08 x 6.45 x 4.03 inches


Item Weight: 15.4 pounds


Date First Available: January 14, 2022


Manufacturer: ANYCUBIC


Country of Origin: China


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Top Amazon Reviews

    • Mono X 6K defective on so many levels. Anycubic's own slicer doesn't work with their own printer.
Review Image by Henchmen4Hire Henchmen4Hire
Review Image by Henchmen4Hire Henchmen4Hire
Review Image by Henchmen4Hire Henchmen4Hire
Review Image by Henchmen4Hire Henchmen4Hire
Review Image by Henchmen4Hire Henchmen4Hire
Review Image by Henchmen4Hire Henchmen4Hire
Review Image by Henchmen4Hire Henchmen4Hire
The media could not be loaded. [UPDATED 9/14: After a lot of troubleshooting, Anycubic eventually sent me a new screen to see if that would fix the issues with the random defects. I've printed a few full plates now and the random defects do still happen, albeit at a much reduced rate. I no longer get the solid blocks, but occasionally there will be a hiccup and the other defects will rear their ugly heads. I have now spent over $100 in materials out of my own pocket to troubleshoot this thing with customer support, and it's still not 100% reliable. I'm done trying to fix it.] [UPDATED 7/27: The replacement printer has the same issues. Don't buy this printer. Ugh.] [UPDATED 7/26: Received a new one and it also has issues. Light uniformity is horrible and has the grid line issue again, will test print today. Added a picture of my original Mono X to show how it's supposed to look like.] [UPDATED 7/20: New defect and added video] --- Even after having to deal with some hardware defects, my original Photon Mono X has been a great workhorse for over a year, spitting out good quality prints without fail. I decided to set aside my bad experiences with Anycubic and upgrade to the higher-resolution 6K model. [SETUP] I've been resin printing in general for over 2 years now and have used dozens of different printers, setting up the PMX6K was as easy as any other resin printer. This metal machine is built like a tank, I'm just as happy with it as the older PMX in that regard. They share almost all the same parts after all, even the power adapter and upside-down USB port are the same. While the printer isn't actively printing anything, the fans are all off, so it's completely quiet. As soon as the UVLEDs turn on, the fans roar to life. The fans are a little louder than the PMX's, but the noise is still tolerable. [SLICER + RESIN SETTINGS] I used Chitubox 1.9.3 to slice a test file for the PMX6K. The printer is using a "HC" motherboard, if you need to know. (There is another version of the PMX6K using a "H7" motherboard.) The PMX6K supports TSMC (two stage motor control), but you don't have to use it if you don't want to. I prefer the simpler settings. And another note for experienced users, there are no longer forced Transition Layers on the PMX6K, like there were on the original PMX. In Chitubox you can set Transition Layers to 0. This lets you print stuff directly on the build plate and use Tolerance Compensation without Transition Layers interfering. Some important resin settings can be adjusted on the machine while printing, like Layer Exposure Time and Lift Height. Not a huge boon to new users, but this is useful for more experienced users who need to make adjustments on the fly. [UVLED POWER %] Anycubic claims the PMX6K shines more light through the screen than the PMX. So to test this, I set the PMX6K's Power Level to 80%, the same as it is on my PMX. This means I should need slightly lower exposure times than what I use on the PMX. A few test prints confirmed the claim. With both machines set to the same Power Level, the PMX6K cures resin faster. You can probably use DLP and wax casting resins comfortably with this printer. [BUILDPLATE] After the machine was done printing, I quickly discovered the death grip the buildplate's texture can have on a print! I actually had to chop off around 20 seconds from the Bottom Exposure of one of my resins. It's basically a normal sandblasted plate, like something you'd see in an Elegoo machine, with the addition of rougher little squares, creating a faint checkerboard pattern. It's still possible to lower the Bottom Exposure further of course, to the point that prints will pop off with minimal effort, like they would from any standard build plate. This is great because only needing like 12s for a bottom layer, versus needing 50s, helps extend the life of the screen. Find the sweet spot for your resin. [PRINT QUALITY] The first few prints were great, they looked as good as anything coming off the Mars 3 (35um XY resolution). I was ready to toss out all my other printers, but then... Then I took a closer look at the machine and the problems started manifesting. [DEFECT #1: BUZZING/RATTLING SOUND WHEN FANS ARE ON] The fan volume is tolerable, the problem is that when the fans are spinning there's also an annoying mechanical buzz, almost a rattling. [Update: The replacement printer didn't have this problem.] [DEFECT #2: TOUCHSCREEN CAN BE UNRESPONSIVE] Sometimes the touchscreen and printer won't respond until a few seconds after you tap a button. [Update: This happens with the replacement printer too.] [DEFECT #3: BUILDPLATE PRESSES INTO SCREEN AT START OF EVERY PRINT] At the start of every print, the buildplate presses into the screen and makes a horrible sound as the motor grinds. [Update: This happens with the replacement printer too.] [DEFECT #4: GRID PATTERN APPEARS ON PRINTS DUE TO MATRIX-STYLE LIGHTING] The UVLEDs in the machine are aligned in a grid pattern, they shine light beams upward through the screen to cure resin. The edges of the light beams overlap slightly, these overlapping areas are brighter, causing overexposure, producing a grid pattern on the prints matching the overlapping areas. The only thing that fixed this issue on 2 of my other printers was to replace the lens inside. [Update: This happens with the replacement printer too.] [DEFECT #5: BUGGY SOFTWARE AND CORRUPTED SLICED FILES] I was getting completely random failures, like massively shifted layers across the whole plate, random sharp jagged holes in prints, and supports that were morphed into solid rectangles. (See the images.) I've been printing and selling for over 2 years, I can troubleshoot most things, but these problems are all the signs of a defective screen or corrupted sliced files. I normally use Chitubox, but as a last resort I used only Photon Workshop to see if that would slice the files properly, but it's even worse; It creates a bunch of floating junk layers in the preview when slicing, and transforms supports into thick solid rectangles or hair-thin flimsy ribbons. [Update: This happens with the replacement printer too. ] After a few days of troubleshooting and $50 of wasted resin I finally gave up. I can't fix this. --- [UPDATED 7/20] [DEFECT #6: CANTILEVER IS STUCK AND WON'T RISE.] Good grief. I tried troubleshooting it one last time but now the cantilever won't rise, and the motor makes a horrible sound. All I did was try to print something I had already successfully printed on this machine and now this happened. Obviously there's something wrong with this unit. Amazon won't exchange it for a working printer, they will only take a return. Anycubic says they'll refund me the difference if I return it and buy another of the same printer, so we'll see. I'll update the review as needed. --- [UPDATED 7/26] Received a new printer and it already left a bad impression. [DEFECT #7] The light uniformity on this second unit is terrible. Picture added so you can see how bad it is compared to my original Mono X. It has the same grid line issue too. Will test print today. [Update: It has the same MFing corrupted file problem as the previous unit.] This one also needed grease on the rails, they were making a horrible screeching sound when moving near the top, so be sure to check for that if you get one. --- It's very obvious there's something very wrong with all the Mono X 6K series printers, possibly software/firmware related. Photon Workshop also needs to be brought up to the same level as Lychee/Chitubox or it should be retired entirely. I can't believe anyone would sell this printer when there's no way to reliably print with it! What a scam. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on July 15, 2022 by Henchmen4Hire Henchmen4Hire
    • Update: Broke Within a Week
Size: Mono 2
Review Image by P. Temmermand P. Temmermand
Update: As I mentioned in my initial review I contacted AnyCubic Customer support and initially there was no response to my inquiry. But, they responded to my request for help several days later. After speaking with their tech support via email they replaced the Z Axis Motor and Screw without question. They also replaced my LCD screen which was damaged when the Z Axis motor froze in the down position and the LCD screen was damaged while I was removing the build plate. Thanks AnyCubic! All in all kudos and thanks to AnyCubic customer support and tech support for a quick turn around in addressing my issues and sending replacements parts. The printer is back up and running without problem. Received a week ago. Easy to use, printed very well right out of the box. After a week the Z Axis Screw froze in place with the build plate sitting on the build platform. No way to remove the build plate without taking the machine apart. Contacted Anycubic Customer support for any possible solution and have never heard from them. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on July 17, 2023 by P. Temmermand P. Temmermand
    • Great Out of the Box Solution!
Review Image by izumi izumi
Review Image by izumi izumi
Review Image by izumi izumi
I want to start off with stating this is the first DLP style printed I have owned and got to work directly with. My experience has been to send my friends a file for them to print for me. I do a lot of printing with FDF style machines and have a very set way I process for my current machines. That being said; I found this machine to be great. I didn’t have the privilege of using the original Photon so I can’t compare this to that like a lot of reviews that I read before I decided to give this machine a try. The machine came boxed well from Amazon/Factory. Everything was snug and protected well. Upon unboxing the machine, you do notice the machine is defiantly plastic. But outside of the physical touch it felt solid and looked sleek. As long as you don’t drop the machine or torque the door, I think you will be fine with the machine quality. The machine is boxed with gloves, masks and a plastic scrapper. Because of the resin material you use, immediately buy a box, if not 2 of gloves, masks, and upgrade to a metal paint scraper. DON’T, I repeat, don’t throw out the plastic one. Here’s why, if you are like me and learning to use resin printers. Sometimes the model doesn’t stick to the printing platform. Instead the resin builds up and cures to the film in you resin vat. The metal one will destroy the film. The plastic one worked great for me to get the resin off there, just not well for the models on the platform. You do get a random color of resin with your order. I wish I could have selected from simply black, white or gray. From what I can find online, I for the most part will be painting my models anyways, so why not start with a neutral color. The machine did come with a USB stick that had their slicing software ready to be installed from it. It’s great because you don’t need internet, and now you have a dedicated USB you can use to load your files to the machine for printing. I do wish the machine had an Ethernet port and a way to save repeated files to it. My biggest complaint about the Photon S, actually has nothing to do with the machine but the software they provide. I know I’m learning it DLP printing, so model orientation and preparation on my end needs work. But the software lacks. I crashed on me multiple times in a row when I would try and auto generate supports. When I would run it an administrator mode, and what I believe is take the same steps, it would magically work. WATCH where the auto supports get generated. Many of my models they were to close left to right and couldn’t be snapped off. Plus and some, they didn’t generated supports across a hole beam and caused a print to fail. The software also can’t auto position models on to the bed. The last thing it doesn’t do is hollow out the model and add an air hole to save on resin cost and pull force. This is all on top of the slicing being slow. I’m comparing the slow slicing to my FDF printers, what takes seconds in FDF is now minutes with their slicer. So tips I’ve read about after all of my issues, is print all your models on an angle. It improves appears and with proper orientation you can probably hide support break offs better. Second, hollow out your model. I’m told CHITUBOX has the ability to hollow out models and add holes. I have not tried this yet. I was also told you might be better off preparing your model and adding supports in other software, but to use the included software to simply slice the file. Here are my 3 Pros, Cons, and Wishes for the AnyCubic Photon S line. Pros, easy to level, software included, right of the box all in one solution. Cons, software (poor support generation and resin saving features), No Ethernet or WiFi connection, no internal file storage. Wishes, Ethernet preferred, but I’d take wifi. I want to be able to setup a print farm with them. Software that can hollow a model and auto position multiple models on to the print surface. Reminders for you if you are ordering this printer or any other resin printer. More gloves, masks, and probably a set of googles. A metal paint scrapper with a good edge. I’d throw a cheap pan under the printer to catch drips. And don’t forget your Isopropyl Alcohol, and UV light (if you don’t have adequate sun light). A Note on my photos. The white is from not cleaning my models enough before curing them with a UV light. My understanding is this is common for beginners. Washing in in the alcohol and rinse in a water basin before curing. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on October 15, 2019 by izumi izumi

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