YITAMOTOR 52" inch 300W Combo+ 2X 18W Spot LED Light Bar + Mounting Brackets+Wiring for JEEP JK Wrangler

Item came well packaged and defect free when unwrapped. As others have stated, the holes for mounts at first seem to not line up well with existing bolt holes, but if you put outside 3 bolts in first and leave them loose, the front two bolts will line up if you push in towards center of vehicle on the mount. When bolts are tightened up, you will see mount shift its shape very slightly - it appears that they just have the bends in the mount bent slightly tighter of an angle than necessary, causing this appearance of holes not lining up initially. Leave the mount on one side (whichever side you will be running the wire harness on) loose, as you will need to pull it back off after you have the light bar wired to harness, so you can route harness down underneath the mount - there is a gap just the right size underneath the center of mount bar between mount and the A-pillar for harness to fit, but you have to pull bolts off so mount can come off enough to get harness behind it. A second set of hands here are extremely useful here to get light bar mounted, then to hold mount with light bar up while you get wire harness placed underneath the mount. On a side note, the bolts for windshield mount use a T-40 torx, and the bolts for the panel under the windshield wipers is a T-30 torx on '08 jeeps - probably the same size for all newer models as well... As far as installing the lights, use the short allen bolts included for the light bar mounting - the long ones are too long and will bottom out. You will not need these (or the small stand-off mounts included - don't know why they put these in this kit for a JK). Leave the short allen bolts loose in light bar until you have the mount re-installed after getting wire harness positioned properly underneath it, then aim light bar where you want it and tighten screws. I followed others suggestions regarding whistling noise experienced from the roof light bar, and installed door edge trim on back edge of lower fins prior to installing light bar, since that was the easiest time to do it. I used black door trim which blends in nicely with light bar finish, & is available at your local Walmart in an 18' roll for cheap. Never gave it a chance to see if I would have the same whistling or not - edge trim was cheap, and installing it first seemed like a no-brainer to me. Pod lights take a few minutes to figure out additional bracket for, seeing as how no instructions for installation for ANYTHING are included in this kit. The small curved bracket goes underneath the pod, with the stud in the pod going through the slot in the bracket. Be sure to put the included bolt in through the bracket prior to mounting bracket to the pod, with this end of bracket closest to front of pod - this bolt will be the mount bolt that attaches to the windshield bracket and allows for left/right aiming of pod. The stud on pod allows for up/down aiming of pod. Sorry for such a bad description, but there are several U-tube videos on the installation of this kit that show what I am trying to describe, and do a much better job of showing the pod assembly and installation. The included wire harness for the roof light bar leaves something to be desired, but does the job. There is a LOT of extra wiring coming from the light bar left over after hooking up light bar and running wiring down to engine compartment, but I left it and coiled/zip-tied it in a bundle for future re-wiring - I am going to be installing a relay box (S-pod) at a later date on left front of jeep engine compartment in the future, and there should be enough wiring here to reach the box where I am planning to mount it. Some have said they just wired the pod lights to the wire harness included, as kit doesn't include a separate harness for the pod lights, but I would recommend against this as light bar harness appears to only be built to handle the 300 watts needed for light bar. Adding the pods to same harness increases the amps an additional 10% and risks over-amping the harness and melting something or catching something on fire. I purchased the extra harness that Yitamotor makes for 2 light pods so that I can operate pods independently from light bar, since it was cheap (under 9 bucks). In hindsight, I wish I would have just made my own harness, as the one they make for 2 pods is not long enough to reach both pods in this set-up - 1 on each side of windshield. Harness had same problem as the supplied harness with it having a junk switch. It did have the required relay and in-line fuse needed for a separate circuit, but everything else on harness I either replaced because of using my own switches, or had to add extra wiring to harness to get it to reach both pods. The switch included in the included wire harness for the light bar is junk, but it does function (I left it wired to harness just until I had light bar installed to test it for operation, then cut it off and discarded it to run my own switch). If you will be using your own switch, you will cut off the small blue and black wires from back of the relay socket going to the switch, and only use the small white wire to run to your rocker switch. Make sure you cap and stow the blue wire you cut off if you don't cut it off flush at relay socket, as it will still have power to it, & you don't want it to touch something and short out the relay (blue wire was for power to the on/off indicators on included switch). This is what I did on mine, on the slim chance I may want this for a future hot lead for something that just needs a low amp power source. When running the wiring for a better quality rocker switch that can be hard-mounted in a switch bracket in cab (I chose the A-pillar replacement panel with cutouts for 4 horizontal switches), the white wire you left on wire harness from relay socket will run into the cab of vehicle and go to pin #3 on a 5-pin rocker switch (I used CH4x4 rocker switches on mine), then run a hot 12v + power wire to pin #2 (I ran mine from the cigarette lighter power wire), a switched power wire to pin #6 (on my JK, I found this on the orange/grey wire in the wire bundle just inboard of accelerator pedal & just forward of center console trim) This is a dimmable circuit on JKs, so backlight on switch comes on & dims with dash lights when dimming dash, Run a ground to pins #7 & 8 (jumper these two pins together and run a single wire to existing ground stud on vehicle). The pins on 5-pin rocker switches are used as follows: pin #2 - 12v power in to switch to operate accessory/lights; #3 - 12v power out from switch to relay to operate accessory/lights; #6 - dimmable power in for backlight in lower light (or RH light on horizontal switch); #7 - ground for upper/LH backlight; #8 - ground for lower/RH backlight. Using this wiring setup for switch lights up one side of switch with dimmable light enabled when you have running lights or headlights on, and other side of switch lights up full bright when accessory is switched on. Hope this helps anyone else who is thinking about purchasing this kit. I dropped 1 star due to issues with wiring harness and no instructions of any kind being included, but otherwise I am happy with this kit - they are extremely bright, and fairly cheap compared to some other brands. Time will tell how they hold up...

Good quality material, very sturdy. Needs a little finesse to get bolt holes to line up. Put outside bolts in first and keep loose, the push the bar towards the opposite side just enough to get holes to line up, put in bolts and leave loose. Repeat on other side. Had small problem with short bolts still being too long, I used an extra washer to take up the slack. Looking for shorter black stainless bolts to replace the ones that came with the unit. 2016 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport - Everything fit no mods needed. SUNPIE Jeep Wrangler JK JKU Control Box & 6-Switch Pod / Panel & Source System Relay Box with Wiring Kit Electronic Control System for LED Light Bar Rock Lights is what I used. Its a sweet set up. It may be a bit pricy, but the ease of adding other light and these make it worth while. One cable into the cab and the pod goes above the review mirror. Everything wires up in the engine in a small terminal box which has all of the relays and stuff mounted in it. You don't need all of the stuff that comes with the lights, just the wire.. Use black door trim, got it from Walmart 18' for under 10.00 bucks. Put it on the bottom splines from the middle down. No more noise, at least it worked for me. It was a simple fix.

This might be a tad bit long, but it's 100% honest and it's current as of July 23, 2019. First the good - THEY'RE BRIGHT. Now the bad. Starting with the packaging. Arrived partially opened. Contents are loose inside wrapped lightly in a plastic wrapping. nuts, bolts and washers are in 2 small clear bags just loosely scattered into the box. From there things get worse. I've got a 2018 Jeep JK Unlimited. The support brackets do NOT fit the contour of the vehicle, they stick out about 2" or so at the top, so it looks RIDICULOUS. I had to heat up the brackets at the 10" mark basically where the contour of the A pillar changes and then I bent the brackets to fit better. They still look a bit hokey, but it will do I guess. Then from there the wiring harness is a joke. I picked it up out of the box and the blue/white/black wires that feed into a harness clip essentially fell out. The wires are held in by friction it seems and the slightest tug on one of these wires pulls the wire out from the harness lead. Didn't matter in my case, because I didn't use their switch, I bought my own and just used the leads cut from the harness anyway. Then you get on to the black and red leads from the lights themselves. In my case - one 52" overhead and 2 small pod lights. These leads are SHORT! The pod leads are barely long enough to hide your wire connections under the hood cowl. The bigger issue is that the pod lights cannot connect to the SINGULAR harness that is supplied unless you splice into it and run pig tails from the main harness over to each pod light, then up to the overhead light. What I did was run my main harness right to the overhead light. Then I spliced in under the cowl directly in line from one pod light, then took the slack from the main harness and ran it over to the opposing pod light. This wire runs back through the firewall and into a relay and then a fuse, then into just a Pos+ Neg- lead system you connect to the battery. Pretty easy if you're electrically inclined. I used a 5 pin switch from CH4X4. The wiring into the cabin is easy as you're only bringing in blue/black and white. Blue if you follow it along is actually tied into the red positive lead that ends up attaching to your Pos+ battery position, so no need to run a separate 12V lead into the vehicle. The black grounds out, but I always run a secondary ground from the foot well on the drivers side and tie into the Neg- line that runs into the cabin from the - battery connection. Then it's just the white wire, which is your accessory. I also ran another white wire from my switch and tied into the dash circuit so that the light comes on when my instrument panel illuminates at night. In case you're not familiar with which line to tap into, the easiest way to identify it is that it's the thinnest wire that runs into the harness that operates your window switches in my jeep that's located dead center on my dashboard. You can either use a panel tool to pry the window switch console out, or what I do is remove the left or right vent (there's a trick there too) and then get my hand in behind the window switch and just pop it out... Use an in-line connector so you don't have to splice because the harness isn't very long, there's not enough slack to fiddle around in there. All in all this thing took me 5 hours to get installed, but I spent over 2 hours contouring the support brackets so they fit the shape of the A pillar. I will say at highway speeds the overhead light makes a VERY LOUD noise, so I'm going to have to do something about that. Another reviewer said that he used weatherstripping. I'll try that out. Value is good for what you're receiving as far as light output goes, but more money needs to be spent on tooling to get the bend proper to fit the profile of the A pillar. Overall 2-3 stars just because of the fiddling around I had to do with the support brackets AND the tie in of the pod lights into the main harness. Disagree? UPDATE - Sept. 19th. These guys contacted me asking to update my review if they offered a discount. I told them to ship me a whole new unit and we will see. I’ll let you know how that one goes. UPDATE - Oct 12th. Company contacted me and advised they would send a 50” light bar after I suggested the 52” is too wide. This light bar and mounting bracket are MUCH better. Still a few design flaws but we can work through them. The fit is much better. No bunny ears at the top, the light bar sits a bit lower and overall it’s much better. Great customer service. Still one of the brightest lights I’ve ever seen! Nice!

This is a great product, I was sorta hesitant to purchase because it was very cheap and I was concerned about quality. However, the light bar is extremely high quality, the spot lights are as well. The wiring was very simple and I had the whole thing installed in just a few hours, wires hidden and clean look. It wasn't but about 30 minutes before I was already getting compliments on it. I highly recommend this product!