Search  for anything...
AW

AW Electric Bike Conversion Kit 48V 1000W 26" Front/Rear Wheel Powerful Motor E-Bike Conversion Kit Dual Mode Controller W/LCD Display Twist Throttle PAS Ebike Wheel Kit

  • Based on 631 reviews
Condition: New
Checking for product changes
$239.99 Why this price?

Buy Now, Pay Later


As low as $40.00 / mo
  • – 6-month term
  • – No impact on credit
  • – Instant approval decision
  • – Secure and straightforward checkout

Ready to go? Add this product to your cart and select a plan during checkout. Payment plans are offered through our trusted finance partners Klarna, PayTomorrow, Affirm, Afterpay, Apple Pay, and PayPal. No-credit-needed leasing options through Acima may also be available at checkout.

Learn more about financing & leasing here.

Selected Option

Free shipping on this product

Eligible for Return, Refund or Replacement within 30 days of receipt

To qualify for a full refund, items must be returned in their original, unused condition. If an item is returned in a used, damaged, or materially different state, you may be granted a partial refund.

To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.

View our full returns policy here.


Availability: In Stock.
Fulfilled by AWInternational

Arrives Jun 3 – Jun 7
Order within 17 hours and 30 minutes
Available payment plans shown during checkout

Style: Rear


Features

  • [Powerful Brushless Motor]: Electric Bicycle Rear Wheel Conversion Kit features 48V 1000W brushless and gearless hub motor for efficient running; fit for any 26" bicycle frame with 5 5/16" rear dropout spacing, easily convert your bicycle to electric bike and reach the maximum riding speed of 45 KM/H( 27.95 mile/h), suitable for regular bicycles used on commuting and short journey
  • [Dual Mode Controller]: Motor works under Hall effect and non-Hall effect for extending life for electric bicycle; If the components break down, controller will switch into non-hall effect mode, the motor will still be working
  • [Pedal Assist System]: Pedal assist system (PAS) for sensing your pedal cadence and allowing you to ride electric bike comfortably without pressing the throttle on the handlebars, can avoid uncomfortable wrist positions and easy to pedal with less fatigue, great for a long-distance journey
  • [Durable & Convenient]: Aluminum alloy frame for durability and stability, can support a heavy weight up to 220 Lbs; drive system without moving chains or gears for anti-friction; LCD operation panel for displaying riding information such as battery power and riding speed
  • [Safe & Environmentally-Friendly]: Brake levers for cutting off the power and braking when riding, can ensure riding safety; CE certificated for quality and safety assurance; battery powered design for environmental protection

Brand: AW


Material: Aluminum


Color: Rear


Brake Style: Disc


Bike Type: Electric Bike, commuting_bike


Brand: ‎AW


Material: ‎Aluminum


Color: ‎Rear


Brake Style: ‎Disc


Bike Type: ‎Electric Bike, commuting_bike


Wheel Size: ‎26 Inches


Rim Size: ‎26 Inches


Item Weight: ‎26 Pounds


Number of Spokes: ‎3


Maximum Weight Recommendation: ‎220 Pounds


Item Package Dimensions L x W x H: ‎26 x 26 x 9.5 inches


Package Weight: ‎11.82 Kilograms


Item Dimensions LxWxH: ‎25.2 x 25.2 x 2 inches


Brand Name: ‎AW


Country of Origin: ‎China


Manufacturer: ‎AW


Part Number: ‎AW-EBE000011


Style: ‎Rear


Size: ‎26In


Date First Available: November 27, 2014


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: Jun 3 – Jun 7

Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.

To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.

View our full returns policy here.

  • Klarna Financing
  • Affirm Pay in 4
  • Affirm Financing
  • Afterpay Financing
  • PayTomorrow Financing
  • Apple Pay Later
Leasing options through Acima may also be available during checkout.

Learn more about financing & leasing here.

Top Amazon Reviews


  • Works great! Exactly as expected!
Style: Rear
3250 mile update 9/16/20: Still running awesome. No reduction in motor performance. Bike in great shape. Battery is definitely losing life and going to have to replace that soon. You lose a lot of battery life as the weather gets colder. Last winter the range decreased by ~40% on cold days but then went back up as things warmed back up toward spring+summer. Now getting into fall though the range is noticeably lower and I don't think it will have enough juice to get me to work during the winter. At ~2900 miles the battery stopped working after a bump. I opened it up and found a connection had rusted through from water getting inside (oops). I re-soldered the connection and it worked great. 500 mile update 5/22/19: Everything is awesome! No noticeable changes after 500 miles of wear. The bike runs great in the rain. No problems yet despite several rather wet rides - although the water spray at 30mph is certainly uncomfortable. I have electric tape on the connections but that is it for waterproofing. On a warm day when I am not wearing a jacket cruising speed on flat ground is actually 30.5mph - a bit faster than the 28.5 while wearing a jacket. No more close calls with cars since the last update now that I know what to watch out for. 135 miles ridden 4/25/19: I absolutely love this thing! I really just figured this out as I went along based only on info I could find online. I don't know anybody else with an Ebike but I imagine after this I will be able to convince some friends+family. Here are my thoughts: - I bought a conversion bike and battery on Amazon (listed below), and including the kit the entire setup was just almost exactly $1000. - It took about 8 hours to assemble everything, including assembling the bike I bought, mostly because I had no idea what I was doing and have no real handyman experience. If I had to do it again it would probably only take 3 hours or less. - I did not install the PAS or the brakes that come with the bike with safety motor shutoff. The throttle is very easy to use and I don't have any problem letting go of the throttle to use the brakes that came with the bike. - The motor connectors and everything with the kit were extremely easy to connect and intuitive, although the instructions are pretty bad. I figured it out mostly without them. The only problem I had was the connector to the rear motor. I apparently didn't connect it tight enough the first time and it burnt out the connector after only a few minutes (!!). Amazon sent a replacement no problem. Second time through I connected it very tightly and secured it with electric tape and now it works great! - Full throttle on flat ground with no wind will go about 28.5 mph (I am 175lbs). While pedaling hard I can get that up to ~33mph or so but honestly at that point I can't pedal my feet much faster. A good middle ground is to stay around 20mph and then pedal comfortably at the same intensity I do when cruising at 12mph on a regular bike. This extends the battery life, gives me a bit of a workout, and keeps me going at a reasonable speed. - Battery lasts about 20 miles on flat ground full speed without me pedaling, or if I bike slower and pedal more it lasts way longer and I could probably get it up to 40-50 miles. My ride to work is 9 miles with a 750 ft elevation gain and over 25 stoplights. If I pedal some but not enough to break a sweat I will use about half the battery on the ride. - The bike I bought was a bit small for the conversion, and the suspension attaches right through the center of the frame taking up all the space there (the bike picture on Amazon shows WAY more space in the center of the frame than I got). This made me have to attach the battery on the underside of the frame, and the controller above the frame right below my seat. This isn't a huge problem, but it does mean that when I go over a large bump the front suspension allows my front tire to brush against the battery, and since the controller is attached under my seat I am unable to modify my seat height easily. The seat height is not a problem since it is already set where I like it. The front tire brushing against the battery case is annoying. Currently I put tape there to absorb the scraping so the plastic of the battery doesn't get damaged. Not a huge issue but worth looking into a larger bike for (Note later I taped a piece of rubber on the front of the battery and that is working much better and not getting worn out quickly like the tape was) - Cars don't expect you to be going as fast as this bike can go. If I am riding in the bike lane, a car is very likely to make a right turn in front of me anytime. Be aware and watch for this to happen - they can't see you well and are not expecting you to be going the speed you are. Get good lights and increase your visibility. - That being said, this thing is AMAZING in the city. I can easily keep up with traffic in downtown Salt Lake City, which feels safer than being passed all the time. If needed I feel much more comfortable taking a lane of traffic since I am able to go reasonable speeds. Hills are super easy - including very steep ones. Getting going from a stop is no longer annoying like it is on a regular bike. - I bought a Torque Arm based on what I had read online, but couldn't figure out how to install it on the bike I bought, and honestly the bike is built solid enough that I don't think I need it. 135 miles so far without a problem and no visible bending or stressing of the rear forks. - The bike I got came with disk brakes. These have really good stopping power, although if I brake too hard my back tire locks up and starts sliding out from under me. It's a bit scary to have to slam the brakes at 28mph on a bike and start sliding, but even though I would not consider myself a great biker it was pretty easy to get back under control and still maneuver enough to avoid the car turning in front of me. Learning what to watch out for and to bike a bit more carefully :P Conversion bike: 2020 Gravity FSX 1.0 Dual Full Suspension Mountain Bike with Disc Brakes, Shimano Shifting (White, 17in) Battery: Joyisi Ebike Battery 48V 13AH / 36V 15AH Lithium ion Battery with Charger, USB Port, Electric Bike Battery for 1000W / 500W Bike Motor (Black) Lights: HeroBeam Bike Lights Double Set - The Ultimate Lighting and Safety Pack of Super Bright Front Bicycle Lights, Tail Lights and Wheel Lights - 5 Year Warranty ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on April 25, 2019 by James Richards

  • GO GO GO
Style: Rear
Love this kit. Installed the basic wheel and throttle in about 1 hour. Pedal assist is option (not required in U.S.) so the sensor does not need to be installed. The included brake handles are also optional, but their benefit is that they automatically disconnect the motor when a handle is pulled. I am 6'1" tall and around 200 pounds, On an inexpensive cruiser bicycle and at full throttle, this motor comfortably gets up to about 30mph. For the batteries, ordered 4 of these when they were on sale: http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-BTL24A360C-Lithium-Phosphate/dp/B00F9LPKJ6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage Placed the four batteries into a $10 plastic toolbox and connected them together using 12ga wire, then to the motor using Anderson Powerpole connectors. Strapped the controller and toolbox on the bike rack over the rear wheel. My battery configuration lasts about 10 miles with lots of throttle and very little pedaling. Will buy again. Having put 500+ miles on the wheel, an update is in order. The wheel has continued to work fine and I try to commute on it once a week. The motor has been working fine without issue. Some things I notice: 1) the motor has very little torq from a complete stop. Best to push off and start pedaling to help it get up to speed without burning a lot of battery energy. Once started moving, the motor has plenty of energy to help a sustained pedaling with little drain from the batteries. 2) The main power wires are connected to the controller using a small, yellow terminal block. Hiding that block on the bicycle is not easy if you want to be able to quickly remove the wheel. A plug would be much more convenient, but I have not tried one. 3) the wiring harness is not adjustable for length. Unless you are capable of installing like connecting ends on the cables, the excess wire must be wrapped up and hidden somewhere. Getting the cables back to the rear wheel and controller from the handlebars can look ugly, but I have found that using a piece of aluminum rod (perhaps Small Parts 14305 Threaded Rod 1/4"-20 - 3', Aluminum 6061 or smaller) you can bend it to the shape of your frame and wrap the cables to it tightly using the cable wrap that comes with the kit. Once the rod and cables are then attached to the bicycle, it looks orderly, like it was designed to be there. 4) with batteries installed, the bicycle is too heavy for most trunk mounted racks. Even after removing the batteries from the bicycle, I recommend a trailer hitch and to use a hitch rack. Since the rear wheel makes the bicycle so backheavy, it does not "hang" well on racks with arms. I ended up making my own rack which allows the bicycle rear wheel and front fork to rest on a platform instead of hanging on hooks. 5) batteries that I use to run the wheel. I have two Lithium Ion 48v 20ah batteries on my bicycle. I have ridden 20 miles on a single battery when comfortably pedaling along at about 20mph and still have a little charge left when I get home. After most 10-mile trips, it takes about 3 hours to charge a battery. 6) I did not install the pedal assist and the unit works fine without a pedal assist cable being plugged into the controller. 7) I did not install the disconnecting brake levers since I use hydraulic brakes Shimano SLX M675 Mountain Bike Disc Brake . You just have to be mindful of releasing the throttle when applying the brakes. Newbies may want to install the disconnect brake levers for peace of mind. 8) motor has subsequently been re-laced into a 57mm single wall rim and is now running with a Duro 3" tire. the first 26x3 inch tire was a Sunlite Cruiser Flame Tires, 26"x 3.0", Black/Black but I did not check air pressure when I picked the wheel up and about a week later on a particularly hot day, had a blowout in the sidewall. The Duro is kept at about 20 lbs pressure and works fine, especially on wet, grassy field and has been working for a year now without incident. The way I had the wired routed from the wheel to the controller, it would take some tools to place the tire, so a repair could not be done on the road. 9) the wiring is not waterproof, but it can be protected a lot with careful placement of connectors. I have not ridden in heavy rain, but it has done well in mist and light sprinkles. 10) the tire that comes with the wheel is pretty flimsy. I found that the original rim worked best for commuting with this tire: Schwinn Cruiser Bike Tire with Kevlar (Black, 26 x 2.12-Inch) I think that is everything I have learned using this product. Since then, I have purchased two more of this model from this seller. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on June 6, 2016 by Jack E. Biederman

Can't find a product?

Find it on Amazon first, then paste the link below.