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Fulfilled by Flashforge Technology
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Size: Adventurer 4


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Top Amazon Reviews

    • Great printer for the money, great support, but you may need to figure out non-default settings
This review is about the Adventurer 4. I use this printer at home as an accessory to work for printing various custom mechanical parts for bread-boarding small device automation, adapters, housings for various parts, microfluidic cartridge prototypes, etc, but also for random fun extras like printing a statue bust in marble filament or a Darth Vader in black and other odds and ends. Pros: - Device-assisted level calibration, which levels the print head across the bed rather than leveling the bed itself. It is very easy to use and has been working perfectly. - Fast and easy filament load and unload. - Easy extruder head replacement / exchange. - Some settings can be changed dynamically while printing, without interrupting the print. These are: 1.) extruder temperature, 2.) Bed temperature, 3.) Print speed (% of set speed), 4.) Z-axis adjustment on-the-fly, 5.) Cooling fan speed (this has proven important to control stringing). There is also a setting called "Filament", which I assume modulates the amount of filament extruded per unit time, but I find no documentation about it and have not used it. - Fairly large print volume - Integration with desktop FlashPrint software. Printing from a computer via WiFi is convenient and so far flawless in my experience. I have seen reports of problems connecting to WiFi, but I have not had any issues there. - High quality prints from my perspective. Perspectives vary, but reproducible sub-millimeter channels that can carry liquid reliably without leaking is good enough for my current purposes. - HEPA filter in enclosure actually does mostly eliminate odor while printing. Even with ABS or polypropylene. Cons: - I find that to reliably print small features close together without a lot of stringing, I have to print pretty slowly (30-40mm/s). Individual results may vary. - Extruder tends to ooze. If pre-oozing is not pulled away from extruder head when printing without a raft, the pre-ooze can get incorporated into the first layer by laying down perpendicular to the pre-extrusion path. Also, regardless of retraction speed and distance, high travel speed combined with slow print speed have been required in my experience to mitigate stringing. - The camera on this model is just a gimmick and not really useful. The resolution is low, the LED lighting glare makes it useless, without the LED it is too dark, and the camera speed is such that a still photo while printing is just a blur. Video is low res, choppy and blurry. The camera could be left out with no cost differential, since the cheap camera is probably sourced for a couple of bucks anyway. A decent HD, adequate frame-rate camera could probably be added with little to no difference in final cost, or possibly define a $20-$50 difference in price. - I cannot find a very complete user manual. The one that comes with the system is skeletal and many specifics are not covered. The magnetic bed is nice for the included build plates. I print on glass, however, and 220x200 borosilicate glass is readily available. Adhering the glass to the print bed with a layer of laboratory Parafilm is an ideal way to secure a glass plate to a print bed without clips. The Parafilm settles to a nice adherent with no lateral movement after the first couple of heated prints. The leveling calibration procedure with this printer makes leveling the print head for a newly-added print surface really easy. One hint: If printing on glass, make sure the cooling fan is set to turn on only after the first layer is printed. Also, turning the fan way down helps both with bed adherence and mitigation of stringing. I usually set the fan at 15%. My other printers are FlashForge Creator Pro models (original model), which are also a great value for the money (very inexpensive now) and work great right out of the box. In comparison to the Creator Pro, I would say that this printer took a little more tweaking up front to find the parameters that worked best for me, as opposed to the Creator Pro, whose different "resolution" settings in FlashPrint more or less worked well with the defaults, but once I found suitable parameters, I find the Adventurer 4 outperforms my Creator Pros in both ease of use and final print quality and reproducibility. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on November 18, 2021 by TH
    • A depressing 36 hour waste of time
I tried extremely hard to get this printer to print PETG. I spent days tweaking settings with almost no luck. The only way I could get it to sort of work was to slow it down to turtle like speed (approx 5 to 10mm/s) any faster and the extruder would start popping and skipping. I ultimately gave up and returned it. I replaced it with a significantly less expensive Ender 3 MAX which I couldn't be more happy with. It prints PETG flawlessly bone stock and with nearly no settings tweaking. In my opinion, this AD4 has two major design flaws: 1) The hotend doesn't have nearly enough metal in it. It suffers from filament shock cooling. That is, it can't keep the temperature consistent as filament is pushed into it. Ironically, FlashForge brags about how fast it can heat up. It is able to do this because its not heating nearly enough metal guys. 2) There is a mile of tubing between the extruder and the hotend. This creates entirely to much play. IE: when you tell it to extrude or retract x amount of filament it is inconsistent because of all the slack in the line. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on December 19, 2021 by Happy Camper
    • Does the cost = “better”?
Bottom line up front - it’s a good printer, but not sure if it delivers more than a printer less than half the price would. It’s incredibly easy to use. It’s a big machine. The company help is responsive but not always as detailed as they could be. For making many small, detailed items, a resin printer might be a better option than a PLA printer. In retrospect, I’d rather have a different machine. Review - This is my first experience with, and purchase of, a 3D printer. Looking at the ones that need to be put together kind of intimidated me, I wasn’t sure what kind of smell or fumes I’d be faced with, and I kind of wanted the “it just works” ease of use. When it arrived the box was so big that I thought it might be a mini fridge. The printer itself reminds me of a microwave from the 60s - it’s a huge box with a door. Unlike old microwaves, it’s very quiet, even with all the fans on and printing at full speed. The top, left side (your left), and door are all transparent acrylic panels. The bottom, right, and rear are black plastic. The filament holder is on the right side behind a little door, and there’s a small cubby in the section, perhaps for the extra nozzles? I experienced a problem right away - my first test print was all over the place. It did not look like any kind of box, more like an oval. I contacted customer support at FlashForge and they replied right away, and suggested I re-seat the wire for one of the motors as it may have come loose in shipping. They sent a close up picture of the board, with all the different parts labeled, very helpfully. However….they didn’t indicate where the board itself actually is located…. I spent some very frustrating time trying to poke and pull at things to see where the secret access panel is, but there is none. I wrote back asking where the dang board is, the reply was it’s under the bottom panel. I spent another hour or so trying to figure out how to unscrew the bottom panel without disrupting the rails. I was seriously contemplating popping out the side clear panel, and thought that was just too much. I wrote back again, more than a lot frustrated, and then finally sent me a video of where the board is. It’s under the base, not the ‘bottom’ , as I think of it. So I had to flip a giant expensive box on its side and unscrew the base to get to the board. But at least now I knew where the heck it’s at! I got all of the many little screws out, and heard a “clatter thunk” noise. Ok, not good…. I popped the base off, and the motor nearly fell into my lap! Turns out the motor had been placed on the rubber mounts, screws put into the hole, and not tightened. As soon as it was put together, and the belt attached to it properly, I didn’t have any more trouble with the prints wobbling all over the place. This is a fine printer, but I think I would receive the same printing performance with a sub-$300 machine. I’m experiencing a lot of stringing, and the rafts/supports seem to be attached much more securely than I prefer. I can’t even get them off on some of the prints! I keep a small sharp chisel by the printer to use to very very gently try to pry prints off their bases, or to loosen pre-extrusion off the print plate. I’m going to try a different filament, maybe the stringing is a problem with the red stuff that came with the machine. I’ve tried a number of different heat, speed, and extrusion settings and I’m still getting wispy strings. The camera is a nice feature, but honestly, the lightbulb is so bright that it washes out most of the picture. At the time that I’m writing this, I’m not able to monitor the print from my cell phone or any other device except for my laptop. I’m also not able to send anything to the printer from my iPad directly, I have to send it to my laptop to run it through the slicer software, and then send it to the printer. I have not yet tried any of the other free slicer software, just Flash Print. My focus is on small figures and little boxes and dice, that kind of thing. I think given the size of items that I am working with, usually under 50 mm, and the amount of detail that they contain, I should have gone with a resin printer in order to capture that level of small detail more accurately. With a larger print size the minor filament stringing wouldn’t bother me nearly as much. But when I get stringing across a small round hole opening that’s 2 mm wide, it’s kind of hard to clean up and it renders the hole non-functional. If I was to do this again, I’d have gotten a $200 resin printer. I may still end up getting one. I would not recommend this for someone looking to print miniatures, small toys, small sculptures, etc. if your primary use is going to be small detailed objects, I don’t think ANY filament printer will achieve the results that you’re looking for. Resin is just superior for rounded edges and small detail. This would be a good choice for someone who is printing bigger objects, or needs the physical barrier to keep pets out of the printing area. Speaking of which, in case this is a feature you’re looking for, the door -does not latch-. If you want to keep small hands out of the machine, you will need to figure out how to add a latch. Good luck with whatever choice you make 👍🏼 ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on December 3, 2021 by Nail Funny

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