ELEGOO Centauri Carbon 2 Combo Multi Color 3D Printer, CoreXY 500mm/s High Speed Multicolor Printing with Canvas, 1-Click Full Auto Leveling and 350°C High-Temp Nozzle, 256x256x256mm Build Volume
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Availability:
Only 10 left in stock, order soon!
Arrives
Monday, Jul 20
Size: Centauri Carbon 2 Combo
Features
- 4-Color Printing with CANVAS - Enjoy seamless 4-color printing with the CANVAS system's instant color switching and smart filament detection. Auto refill and tangle detection maintain smooth, hassle-free multicolor printing
- Redefining Material Versatility - Print across a wide range of materials, from basic to engineering-grade, made possible through an advanced process and temperature control
- Easy from Start to Finish - Fully automated calibration and monitoring deliver reliable results with zero hassle. Just load, tap print, and walk away
- Designed for Speed - Enjoy blazing speeds up to 500 mm/s and acceleration of 20,000 mm/s2. The advanced CoreXY system and rigid aluminum frame team up to deliver fast, precise, and stable prints every time
- Smoother, Sharper, Smarter - Enjoy smooth surfaces and crisp details forged through smart calibration and active vibration compensation
- A Fully Integrated Ecosystem - Streamline your workflow and spark creativity with the ELEGOO ecosystem's powerful tools and seamless connectivity
Description
Fully automated calibration and monitoring deliver reliable results with zero hassle. Just load, tap print, and walk away. Auto calibration and auto leveling simplify setup, while all-around sensing continuously monitors each print for smooth, reliable results with less effort. Print faster than ever with our CoreXY system. Dual 4260 stepper motors independently drive the X and Y axes, while low-friction metal linear guide rods ensure smooth, rapid, and precise printing. Velocity: Up to 500 mm/s Acceleration: Up to 20,000 mm/s² Enjoy stress-free stability at high speeds with an integrated die-cast aluminum frame and chassis that minimize vibrations and maximize performance. Neptune 4 Max 3D Printer Filament Storage Kit RFID PLA Filament PLA Plus Filament Rapid PETG Filament Rapid TPU Filament ASA Filament Visit the Store Visit the Store Visit the Store Visit the Store Visit the Store Visit the Store Visit the Store Visit the Store Visit the Store ELEGOO develops the high quality, cutting-edge and user-friendly 3D printers, and provides the dedicated servce in the consumer 3D printing industry. At ELEGOO, we go beyond being a 3D printer company. We recognize the crucial role businesses play in fostering a sustainable ecosystem. We believe in the power of innovation and sustainability to shape a better world.
Brand: ELEGOO
Material: Metal
Color: Gray
Product Dimensions: 18.9"D x 19.7"W x 29.3"H
Item Weight: 19.35 Kilograms
Product Dimensions: 18.9 x 19.7 x 29.3 inches
Item Weight: 42.6 pounds
Item model number: US-EL-3DF-CC2C
Date First Available: December 3, 2025
Manufacturer: ELEGOO
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Monday, Jul 20
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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Top Amazon Reviews
Size: Centauri Carbon 2 Combo
Never owned a 3d printer? Then this review is for you. I’ll do my best to try to answer questions about 3d printing in general, and about THIS particular 3d printer. If you’re an old hand, then please skip past the next 5 or 6 paragraphs to get to the info that you’re looking for. Let’s start with this: there are 2 types of 3d printers: Resin & FDM 1) Resin printers literally use liquid resin to make detailed figures, and they use UV radiation to harden the resin. Because of this, they generate some nasty odors from equally nasty chemicals. To be honest, I would not recommend a resin 3d printer for home use, especially around children & pets. There are ways to mitigate the dangers, but that’s for another review. 2) FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) printers are safer to operate in the home, and for that reason they’re my choice for 3d printing. So, how does it print objects? FIRST, we start with a 3-dimensional computer model of whatever it is we need to print. To keep things simple, suppose you wanted to print a cube that is exactly 5mm x 5mm x 5mm. We can either find a cube model that’s been pre-made by someone else, or make it ourself using special software. Most people just download models made by someone else. Fortunately, there’s a huge number of sites to choose from that provide thousands of free models. These models come in files that have extensions like “.stl”, “obj”, and “.3mf”. Elegoo has a free site at nexprint.com, and 2other sites that are popular (also free) are printables.com & thingiverse.com. SECOND, we’ll install a program on our PC called a slicer. Elegoo has a pretty good slicer that they give you. But what does a slicer do? Pretty much what its name says: It can slice up our cube model into many layers - each layer sits atop the layer beneath it; kind of like slicing up a tomato into VERY thin slices. From a distance, we see the whole tomato, but if we look closely, we see that it is sliced up into thin layers. Typically the slices will be about 0.2mm thick. Slicing it like this will allow your 3d printer to build one 0.2mm layer at a time. BTW, there are numerous settings within the slicer that can be adjusted, but for most projects, the slicer will provide the generic settings that should help us make many successful prints. Now when you tell the program to slice an model file, it will do something else: it’ll automatically create a list of commands for your 3d printer called gcode. THIRD, once the gcode is created, we then send it over to our 3d printer, and the printer will start the process. After a few moments of warming and heating things up, it will start printing. But how does it do this? Think of a tube of toothpaste that has an opening that’s about 0.4mm wide. Now take this tube and hold it 0.2mm above the metal plate that you want to build on. And as you move the tube from left to right, carefully squeeze out a thin line of toothpaste. At the end of that line, shift the tube over a small amount. Next, move from right to left, again squeezing out a thin line of toothpaste. If you do this enough times, you will have made a 5mm x 5mm square, that is 0.2mm thick. Now the first layer is complete. For the next layer, the machine is going to lower that “build plate” downward by about 0.2mm, so that you can start the second layer on top of the first layer. Each layer is done in exactly this same manner. Except the 3d printer squeezes out molten plastic instead of toothpaste. As the plastic cools, it becomes stiff. The plastic comes from a reel in a long strand that is about 330 meters in length and is 1.75mm thick. It weighs about 1kg. That’s the best description I can think of to describe how FDM printers work. Now let’s talk about the Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 Combo. By the way, whenever I’m about to talk about something important, I’ll precede it with: “IMPORTANT:”. In the beginning, there was the Centauri Carbon, which most people refer to as the CC1. The CC1 was and is a pretty good 3d printer that can print objects up to about 256mm x 256mm x 256 - but it can only handle 1 reel of filament at a time. Which means that whatever color the filament is, the entire project will be in that one color. Although it’s possible to pause during a print, unload the filament, and load another color, and then resume printing. But although it can be done, you’ll grow tired of doing all of the filament changes! Elegoo has evolved / improved that design and they have created the Centauri Carbon 2 Com - and as you probably guessed, most people refer to it as the CC2. The CC2 has many improvements over the CC1, but chief among them is a device called CANVAS. This device allows 4 different reels of filament to be mounted on the printer - which means 4 different colors are available during the printing - and the machine swaps them around automatically for you. This is a very good thing and you’ll come to love it. And they did this at a very modest price increase over the CC1. And that is Elegoo’s claim to fame: bang for the buck. I had mine shipped using Prime, so it was delivered quickly. The box was made of thick cardboard. All corners were protected internally by 8 thick-plastic pieces. Inside, 16 pieces of stout black foam was used to protect/organize the contents. This was not cheap white foam that shreds its pieces; it was the good stuff. All assembly screws were separated, bagged, & labeled. It was easy to assemble using the manual, although I did watch a few assembly videos on YouTube. I also have the CC1, and although it’s well made, I have to admit that the CC2 is even better, with nicer fit & finish. I also noticed that the CC2 has softer rubber feet for absorbing vibration, and a better system of cooling fans. The interior has been cleaned up and looks more modern. And the machine is much more quiet. IMPORTANT: 1. During assembly, you’ll find that the filament hub is mounted on top of the printhead with 2 screws. The filament hub is what feeds 1 of the 4 filaments into the printhead. 2. There’s an end of a cable that is mounted just in front of where the filament hub is to be mounted. 3. Remove the 2 screws that hold that cable in place, and remove the end of the cable. This will make it possible to mount the filament hub to the printhead. 4. Install the hub and its 2 screws - then remount the cable end with its 2 screws. IMPORTANT: 1. During assembly, you’ll find that each spindle (which hold the filament reels) is numbered 1 thru 4. 2. The right side of the casing has 4 small stickers, also numbered 1 thru 4. 3. When mounting the spindles, match these numbers to the stickers. This is crucial. 4. The CANVAS feeding module is mounted on the top right side of the case. It also has numbers molded into it, 1 thru 4. 5. There are 4 PTFE (Teflon) tubes to be inserted into the top side of the CANVAS module. The other ends of these tubes are inserted into the filament hub above the printhead. There is no correct order for this; just be neat. 6. Later, when the printer is completely assembled, know that the filament from spindle #1 needs to be feed into the #1 position beneath the CANVAS feeding module. The same goes for #2, #3, and #4. This is how the machine knows which color to use! Note on the spindles: they have a built-in spring loaded recoil device that tensions & retracts the filament as needed. They prevent the filament from going slack or tangling. They are numbered because they each operate in a specific direction. After assembly, I powered up the machine and followed the screen prompts for setup. The calibration of the build plate took a bit more than 16 minutes total. This procedure does NOT have be performed often - maybe once a month? Next, I wiped the build plate with a paper towel and alcohol. The 1st thing I printed was the “benchy boat” torture test (which was found on the small USB drive supplied by Elegoo). Honestly, it was the BEST benchy I’ve ever printed; a quality print. Found a “mini CC”, which looks like the CC2 (on the USB drive). Time to print it. It’s used to catch the plastic “poop” that comes out the back of the CC2 when printing. There are no holes with which to mount it, but a better solution is to use Velcro tape allows me to remove it for emptying. IMPORTANT: I also printed out 4 spindle adapters, also found on the USB drive. What are they? Well, different brands of filaments come on different reels. Some reels have a smaller hole in the center, while others are larger. It’s important that the reels fit snugly onto the spindles. So, the reels with the larger hole need the adapters inserted into them 1st, before pushing the reel onto the spindle; these adapters are flexible and fill in the gap that the large holes create. So, that makes 6 items printed so far, and I should mention that adhesion to the build plate was phenomenal every time. IMPORTANT: At 1st I printed items directly from the USB drive, but the time came to send my gcode wirelessly from the Slicer to the CC2. That is when my 1st and only hiccup began. The printer wants to use the Elegoo cloud during this process, and at the time there was some kind of issue with the cloud. This made it more than difficult to “bind” the CC2 to my Slicer (or what I would call pairing). But there was an easy fix for this. I went to the menu on the printer and switched it to “LAN-Only mode”, and turned off the password requirement. When I went back to the slicer to bind the printer to it, I rejoiced. Binding (or pairing) was successful. I’ll attach an image showing the path for this, because some folks have really wined about not being able to bind their printer; I hope this helps them. It also makes the video stream from the CC2 to the slicer much better. In my opinion, LAN-Only is the only way to fly. IMPORTANT: Over the years, I think a lot of the common complaints that I’ve heard with print failures were based on how folks were running their slicer; let me explain. Most of the slicers out there are based on an earlier slicer called Orca, which is a dang good slicer for what it does. And many people are familiar with it, so I would say that the manufacturers SHOULD base their slicers on Orca. But most (if not all) slicers are what I call “brittle” software. Brittle simply means that the software needs to be handled with care; let me explain. The software should not be allowed to run for days (just idling along) because there are always background processes that can go wrong. And when they do, the slicer can make some sloppy or corrupt gcode. So, only run the slicer software when you need it, then shut it down when you are through. Additionally, it is good to “RESTART” your computer before starting a project, which will clear out any bad background processes. Please know that a RESTART is not the same thing as powering off your computer, and then powering it back up. Believe it or not, those nasty processes will still be there if you don’t RESTART. Only a RESTART will clear them out, and help your slicer to run correctly. Granted, if you have a high powered PC, this will be far less of a problem, but if you are using granny’s old PC (like I do), then a restart can be a life saver. Some of the negative reviews that I have read are screaming at me that they probably just needed a RESTART to fix their problem. I’ve even seen where a printhead was crashed into the build plate because of this issue. IMPORTANT: I regularly visit a number of Elegoo’s official Facebook groups; did the same thing for their Centauri Carbon group. This helped me to know what to expect from their CC1 and CC2. I did see (as I have with every group page I’ve visited) some people with an issue or two. Sadly, I think most of them were due to operator error, or just a lack of 3d printing knowledge/experience. But fortunately, there were a ton of people who have had few to zero problems, and have run their machines for hundreds to thousands of hours and are still happy; that gave me confidence to purchase the CC2. I also saw a ton of nice people in this group who are eager to help and explain what’s going on. No matter what brand or model of 3d printer you choose; I suggest finding their Facebook group for the printer and join in on their party. IMPORTANT: My first Elegoo product was a Phecda blue-diode-laser macine. Early on, I had some difficulty in understanding how to run the laser. So, I contacted their customer service and they were very quick to help me. I had my act together within 15 minutes and was thrilled. This is why I have confidence in buying Elegoo products, and two years later I still have no regrets. Now honestly, there are other brands that are just as good - some with good customer service and some with bad customer service - but few give so much quality product ABD service for your money. One printer option I looked at was the Bambu Lab P2S. It has the same build size of 256mm x 256mm x 256mm, but the highest nozzle temp is 50 degrees lower, so the CC2 will allow me to use engineering filaments that the P2S can’t handle. But the real deal killer for me is that the P2S was almost twice the price. So, I can have a pair of CC2 printers running at the same time, for about the cost of one printer from the other guy. It was an easy choice to make. Additional Info: -The machine runs fairly quiet and was surprisingly smooth; I did not have the earthquake thing going on. This surprised me. -The lighting and video is greatly improved over my older CC1. -The CC2 detects the end of a filament roll at the start of the PTFE, which means I know longer have leftover pieces to moan over. -Although I love how the CANVAS gives me 4 color capability, I thoroughly appreciate how it makes loading and unloading filament so easy. Effortless. -Super-cool fact: CANVAS can read the RFID chip on Elegoo’s filament reels and uses this information to program which color and type of filament you’re putting on a spindle; pretty dang cool. -Something I discovered when tracking it, Amazon’s tracking page shows a second by second track of where the delivery truck is on a map. I literally knew when the truck was entering my neighborhood. -It has about 31 embedded sensors; that is crazy impressive for a printer with such a nice price-point. And what do these sensors give us? An AI camera, motion and vibration detection, filament breakage and path detection, cutter status check, part cooling fan drop alert, smart exhaust grille check, bed leveling, bed overheat protection, RFID detection, filament run-out, clog detection, angle detection, drop detection, fan self check, power loss recovery, and who knows what else they do. Oh, and it will feed your pet and do your income tax forms (okay, not really). -It can run as quietly as 45 decibels or less. -Can print up to 500 mm per second; that’s almost 20 inches a second! -The standard acceleration of the printhead is 10,000 mm/second-second. -The maximum acceleration of the printhead is 20,000 mm/second-second. -It uses a solid diecast aluminum frame; much appreciated. -It supports PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA, and is capable of TPU, PC, PA, PET, and other fiber mixes. -It has a brass-hardened steel 0.4mm nozzle; so it won’t be wearing out in a week. -The heat break is made of titanium alloy. -It’s equipped with a HEPA/coconut shell activated carbon air filter. -The max heated bed temp is about 230 degrees Fahrenheit. -Usable file types are .stl, obj, 3mf, and it is step capable. -It comes with a 2-sided build plate; so we have 2 textures to choose from. -The menu can be configured to English, French, German, Russian, Italian, Spanish, Japanese, and Chinese. Klingon or Pig-Latin are currently not an option. I saw in another review where a fellow was complaining because there was no way to turn off the light inside the case. So, I looked into that and found that there were indeed TWO ways to toggle the light on and off. At the screen on the printer, at the home tab, in the upper left corner - there is an icon that looks like a light bulb. Pressing it toggles the light. Additionally, in the Elegoo slicer, on the Device tab, there’s another toggle labeled as “Overhead Light”; it’s located in the middle of the Slicer window and can also be used to toggle the light. I guess the big question now is: Do I have any complaints? And I guess I might have a few. 1) I wish that the build volume was a bit larger, although the build volume of 256mm cubed is pretty much par for the course. But I’m greedy, and I would like another 50-75 mm in all three directions. Maybe one day Elegoo will make a mega sized CC3 and I will be first in line. To be honest, though, I have built some fairly large projects with the CC, so I should be ashamed of myself. 2) Although having four filament colors at my beck and call, I would like to have 6 colors (again, I’m greedy). Still, the four spindles are a huge upgrade for me, so I’m thankful. 3) At the time of writing this review, I noticed that Elegoo does not post their firmware files. They can only be uploaded directly to the machine and only when there’s an update. If I want to reinstall an older version, or if my current version gets corrupted, then I have to contact an Elegoo rep to give me a link to download the actual firmware file for the printer. Elegoo: I hope you change that. 4) I would like to see the owner’s manual cover the fact that it can be ran as a LAN-only printer, and that the password can be disabled. But then again, I have NEVER seen a recent manual from any manufacturer that was entirely thorough. Again, I guess that’s just par for the course. 5) I have come to find that Elegoo’s filament seems to be among the most reliable (if not THE most reliable) filaments available. So, for that reason I sure would like to see it available in my local stores for when I need it ASAP. But at least it can be ordered from Amazon.com. Now for the big question: Would I purchase this printer, if I had it to do over again? Answer: That’s an easy one. Absolutely for sure. I honestly believe this to be an incredible printer that can well hold its own against printers that cost twice, and in a few cases, three times its price. We’re talking major bang for the buck. And I love bang for the buck. Don’t know how I ever got along without it. Another question is: Who would I suggest this printer to? Answer: Well, I would definitely suggest it to the well experienced 3d printing guys. They will find that they will not have to spend days, weeks, and even months trying to “fine tune” this machine into something that can work for them. It works pretty much right-out-of-the-box. The benchy boat proved that to me. And if they have been using the Orca slicer or one of its many derivatives, then they should feel right at home tweaking any of the settings that makes them happy. But is it a printer for the person who has NEVER owned a 3d printer? And again, I think the answer is yes. Although it will give them a lot of room to grow, expand, and experiment - the majority of their prints will require little to no tweaks. And fortunately, there are a ton of youtube videos that will walk them through the process of 3d printing with this specific brand and model; kind of like having your own home-based Elegoo tutor. Well, if you made it this far, I want to thank you for reading my review. And I certainly hope that it will help you make a decision as to whether this is the right 3d printer for you - and my very best regards to you!
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Reviewed in the United States on June 19, 2026 Reviewed in the United States on June 19, 2026 by m
Size: Centauri Carbon 2 Combo
2 Days... 2 Days is how long it took for it to fail. Started out very good. Packaging was great, setup was flawless, installation and setup video was great. First print came out a little messy.. Not bad enough to cause concern for a brand new out of the box machine. Printed multiple things quickly, and easily. Software was easy to use and learn, and very simple to understand. The next day, I printed a bucket for the purge out the back, immediately it started peeling up off the bed, and having issues.. (bed was cleaned after every use). This particular time, I also enabled bed leveling. Still didn't help. The print completed, and it was good enough. I then decided to test it with an articulated dragon... The issues began, and never stopped.. First, the dragon printed great.. No issues.. But the software was stuck at "Printing, 17%" No worries, I'll just reset the software, and printer. Nope.. Still stuck at 17%.. Reminder, the dragon is sitting on my desk, finished.. I went through every process they recommend.. Restart internet, apps, computers, phones, routers everything. Nope.. 17%. Also, if you tried to just ignore it, and print something else, it would say "Printer is printing", but if you clicked the pause or stop button on the screen, it said "Not printing anything". The screen on the printer wasn't saying anything like this though, it was like it wasn't connected to my computer. So, I decided to test it from the machine. "Printer is busy". Checked for updates.. Now.. Let me first say, in the facebook group for these, every, and I mean EVERY post, is some issue they're having. And it's even a joke about the updates, "is the new update safe?" "Should I do the update?" Because everyone knows how the updates ruin it.. Well... No surprise.. I hit update, and it was over. Absolutely no connection at all after that. Another round of resetting everything.. Nothing.. Spent the next hour or so doing everything possible to get it connected. FINALLY... The phone app got connected.. After having to reset my account and log back into it on the printer side, scan the QR code to link it back to my phone, etc.. Finally, it's connected... Lets try something.. Guess what.. Printer is printing the dragon.. Now at 8%.. The screen on the printer didn't say that though.. So, lets hit print.. Woah.. It started?? Great! Not so fast... It began making the outlines for the first layers, and I noticed something... What is that? A mass of filament dragging around behind the nozzle... It didn't even purge. It just started squishing out filament.. Had a large glob of it already starting.. When I hit stop, it didn't and the app then popped up with the dragon, now at 0%. And if you've looked into these at all, that glob is what the community calls the "Glob of death" because it will absolutely destroy these machines... It will ruin the nozzle, and all the components in the head, because the plastic will be melted all around the cables, boars, etc.. Which they recommend just buying an upgraded one.. Already? No thanks.. I rarely review things, but this needs to be posted. These, from what I have seen are about a 90/10% usage.. 90% of the time, you will be fixing things, making sure its printing correctly, checking to make sure you don't have a "Glob of death". And resetting your software, internet, phone, computer, etc.. 10% will be actually using it and being happy with the result. Do your research on these. Join the groups on facebook.. It's not a joke, and I'm not overexaggerating. EVERY. POST. Is some type of issue. Oh.. And I made a post about the issue, apparently everyone that did the update, had the same issue.. That was early yesterday. (4/11/26) it is now 4/12/26, they said it could be a while before it's fixed and they can use their printer again, and warning others to not do the update.. How dumb.. No thanks. Taking my business elsewhere. Already asked for a refund, and it's boxed up ready to roll out! Again.. Do your research... You'll see..
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Reviewed in the United States on April 12, 2026 Reviewed in the United States on April 12, 2026 by Steve
Size: Centauri Carbon 2 Combo
This is the second Elegoo Carbon 2 I have bought. I bought the first one directly from Elegoo. My experience with that printer was exceptional - right out of the box, it produced great prints - and a lot of them. My previous experience with 3d printers goes back 10 years or more - with purchased printers that needed a ton of upgrades and a lot of day-to-day care to get the prints out. The Elegoo was a breath of fresh air - you send a job and it just prints (for the most part). It is such a joy to have a 3d printer that just works and you don't have to worry whether a particular job is going to print. This is not to say that there are no failures - there are some - but overall - it is a great printer. My second one was bought from Amazon for a different location and it has performed just as well as the first one. I am surprised by ratings by many reviewers - I give it 5*s and do not hesitate to recommend to others. This printer is so easy to use and how can you not like the price for all you get with it...
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Reviewed in the United States on June 21, 2026 by HJMAN
Size: Centauri Carbon 2 Combo
So far so good, it's an amazing printer and has been working flawlesly since the first day. It shakes sometimes during printings, but i don't find it noisy. Print speed is awesome with good quality results. Autoleveling works great and is in general an easy machine to use. I have had some failed prints, but has been my fault.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 25, 2026 by Miguel Ángel Calderón
Size: Centauri Carbon 2 Combo
This is a fantastic budget AMS FDM printer. The build quality on the overall machine is very good and sturdy. The machine is very heavy and tends to vibrate quite hard, so location is very important when choosing where to locate this printer. Initially print quality was fantastic with PLA. Started using PETG and it worked for about 10 prints, then started having clogging issues. Removed hot end, replaced nozzle and still had issues. The design of this print head and how the filament cools between the extruder and the hot end, causes the filament to cool and then struggle to reheat and push to the extruder between prints. No quick-change nozzles make this process a timely and difficult process. The connectors for the hot end are very difficult to remove without custom tooling (you can print a tool to assist). First time trying to remove the connector it pulled the wires from the connector. I ordered an off-brand replacement and had issues with printing. Threw it out and just used the wiring and heating element. Speeds are great, quality is great, until you run into self-leveling issues. At the beginning, self-leveling was great and no need for manual Z-Offset adjustments were needed. Recently even after self-heated leveling, prints were failing at the first layer. After much research, I had to self-adjust the z-offset drastically. In addition, the connectivity has been very buggy. Printer will randomly disconnect and leave me with no way to monitor prints on the go. Slicer is just fine and works as it should. This being said, great budget introduction into AMS FDM printing. If looking for a print farm or production machine, I would avoid. UPDATE: After the most recent firmware update, heated self-bed leveling has been fixed. Thank goodness. Recently upgraded to some better hardened steel nozzles and durability has been much better. Printed a lighter print head as well and now my print issues are very slim to none. Looking to upgrade to a microswiss high flow nozzle to increase reliability and print speeds. The firmware update also fixed me connectivity issues. We will see how long this lasts, but as of right now, no issues! Customer service is very responsive and fast as well.
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Reviewed in the United States on April 8, 2026 by Brandon Rowe
Size: Centauri Carbon 2 Combo
Original Review:Ive owned this printer for 4 months. 3 months it worked flawlessly. The last month has been emailing tech support back and forth to troubleshoot why its no longer working. I finally got replacement parts sent. It cost me $21 to get them released from customs in NYC. I installed ths parts and it still doesnt work. Now customer service for Elegoo is radio silent as I dont want to waste more months of troubleshooting and paying for parts that dont work. 3 months of solid use and its a large paperweight. I want a refund or new printer. Since its outside the return window Amazon cant refund the order. So im handcuffed to dealing with elegoo. Never again will I purchase an Elegoo product and I love my CC1. 6/10/26 I received 1 replacement actuator for the canvas feeding box and a new extruder. Replaced both and still having problems. Contacted Elegoo again. This time they were faster to respond. Now im being sent 4 actuators and a hot end. Plus refunded my customs payment for DHL shipment. Will update once I have installed the new parts. Its a shame that this printer was an absolute beast for the first 3 months. Im talking about flawless 37hr non stop prints. Then the software began to disconnect from the Matrix app. Then the CC2 wouldn't connect with my computer even though the CC1 connects every single time. I had some issues with the CC1 and new parts were sent out to me. Knock on wood its been working flawlessly ever since. I already pre ordered the canvas system for the CC1 and now I'm a little nervous about when it arrives. Id hate to ruin a solid printer. Everything with Elegoo seems to be software related. Then parts begin to fail. I believe that the failures are due to the updates and software malfunctions causing the printer to no longer function correctly. Will update one fixed. 6/16/26 Its almost been a month of back and forth with tech. Ive now been sent, an entire extruder head, 4 actuators for the canvas, 2 hot ends and reimbursed for my shipping. I go to install the new extruders and what do I find? Melted wiring in the harness. So now im back to contacting Elegoo over this issue. Had they sent the entire Canvas box like I first asked, my problem would have been solved a month ago. Yes tech has kept up their end of every bargain we've made. However after only 3 months of owning the printer and now have a huge paperweight on my desk, im furious. I demanded my money back or a new printer. I was told I could get a refurbished one sent to me. So I paid $450 for a printer that lasted 3 months. Then over a month of tearing this printer apart and replacing parts to end up with a used printer? Unexceptable! Im calling Amazon as well because their chat sucks. I will never ever buy elegoo products again.
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Reviewed in the United States on June 3, 2026 by Tyler C.
Size: Centauri Carbon 2 Combo
Worked well for 3 weeks, but today about half way through a 5 hour print the camera quit responding. The slicer is still tracking temperature, so the network is connected. Fundamentally, the company is misguided and following the same dead-end path that bamboo is on. Instead of integrating into the open source community, they are effectively ripping off others then trying to capture customers into an ecosystem that continuously falls behind because it is locked at an older version of the slicer & firmware. They could have provided printer profiles to Orca and stayed current. They could have provided profiles to Klipper and stayed current. They could have put their time and energy into making sure their camera vendor had a product that lasts longer than 3 weeks. Instead they chose the short-term greed path of ecosystem capture and will end up the same place as Anet already went, and Bamboo will get to soon enough. The only technical issues I have with the product are ;; that the cover has to be lifted over the Bowden tubes, rather than allowing it to slide off the side. This is due to how the slide in that wraps around the MMU attaches to the cover. ;; that the printer can't be configured to allow connections from a different subnet, so I would run a remote desktop Linux version of the Orca slicer into Klipper, but that won't talk to their braindead protocol and they don't support their version of Orca slicer on Linux. ;; there is no mechanism to turn off the chamber light when not in use except the power switch, which is not network controllable, so the light stays on after the print finishes. ;; the Elegoo PLA bundle that came with the printer did not have RFID tags, which is not a big deal, but you would think that the promo team would want to showcase a feature through the bundle . ;; that the bed is small. I can't really complain about that much because I knew that before ordering, but the current print had to be broken into 4 because they chose to copy the trendy BS toys. The only substantial extra cost would have been for shipping the larger chamber. While I would expect them to continue to offer this size to meet the trend, I would have ordered a larger one if it existed. I have printed several projects that were postponed due to hardware issues on the other printer. Some in the bundled PLA, some pastel bright PLA, some PETG, and ABS, plus finished off a roll of PETG and continued after loading another. It got 2.5 hours into the first of 4 5.5 hour ASA items before the camera died. Started the second one to see if it would restart with the new print, but all the slicer is getting is temperature and progress. In 5 hours I will try to power cycle it to see if that does anything. UPDATE:: Power cycle fixed whatever was going on with the camera. One more technical issue ;; the only thing a normal browser can do is connect to the camera. There is no way to monitor the system state except through their outdated slicer. Klipper is fully capable of being monitored by multiple remote browsers so you can keep up with it in different locations, but their "closed & capture" mindset has led them to disable that functionality. It's not too late, they could still produce the add-ons for Klipper & Orca, then wind down support for their versions over time, but I doubt they will. That is unfortunate because the hardware is generally decent. I suspect I will eventually end up ripping out their control board, replacing it with a BTT board & stock Klipper and Orca.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 29, 2026 by Anthony Hain
Size: Centauri Carbon 2 Combo
Glad I listened to my gut and bought this printer. Its an absolute beast I've been printing non stop since I received my machine with only one failed print that was my fault. Adjust a few settings by running calibration test prints and your ready to go! Don't listen too people who tell you to spend $800+ for the average person this machine has all the features you could ask for. My only critique would be the extra steps and equipment need to print TPU are annoying but at this price point I'm still happy with it.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 21, 2026 by Bella